Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
